This post is part of a personal blog project to Find My Style. Please read the first post for an overview of what I’m trying to do and what kinds of comments I’d like. Thanks.
Sorry for the radio silence and the delay in approving comments.
In the meantime I decided to make a sleeveless top using the Sorbetto pattern from Collette.
The first thing I had to grapple with was which size. My hips correspond to the size 18 measurement and my bust to the size 16. Thinking about Amy Herzog’s writing about fit, and her view that we should use the upper torso measurement and then adjust the bust because that allows for variation in overall bust measurement for people with the same breadth of back, I would be more like the 12.
The pattern notes said that there was not much ease so I initially went with the size 18 and then picked out and recut the top part to the size 16 lines and darts because that was too big.
However, there is still some gaping in the armhole above the bust and one of my friends suggested that could be the shoulder and/or the upper back curve. She passed on advice from a sewing teacher of hers to pick the size based on shoulder measurement and adjust the bust, which is more or less what Amy H. says.
Pondering this, I realize that if I did this I’d be adjusting the pattern to make the size 12 top part gracefully extend into size 18 hips. Ignoring the front, where I’d obviously add width and length for my breasts, the back would end up very A-line. My upper torso measures 40″ and my hips 48″.
Hence the title of this post. The style of the Sorbetto is relatively straight with some waist shaping. It is not an A-line top. Do I adjust the Sorbetto in this way? Do I look for A-line styles?
Of course, there is always the issue that this pattern is a very basic top pattern, the value of which might be that I don’t have to draft the whole thing from scratch. But I think there is still a useful question here.
Am I looking for a particular range of styles and then making minor adjustments to suit my own unique body? Or am I adjusting everything?
And if I’m doing the latter, how does that affect the final outcome.